Paradise

Flamenco Beach
Culebra, Puerto Rico
Dec. 22, 2009


Ever since we started to put this trip together, I have dreamed of lying on a beach with nothing to do! I am now living out my fantasy, and I would be hard-pressed to improve upon it!

We disembarked from the cruise ship early on the 19th, found a mini-cab willing to take us from San Juan to Fajardo (about an hour), and then caught the stomach-churning ferry-boat over here to the Spanish Virgin Island of Culebra.

Once we docked, there was one final cab to catch for the three-mile trip out here to the campground... where we arrived just in time to discover that all the beach vendors were closing up for the day, and there was no food to be had!

Nothing daunted, we managed to get set up in the rapidly failing light, and blessed our friends in Berlin who had given us a package of specially shaped pasta as a souvenir! It made for a meagre supper, but got us through the night!

It's pretty primitive here: the electricity to the bathrooms is shut off -- but at least the toilets have seats and flush; the showers are cold water and simply faucets on a simple platform open to all and sundry -- but there is a supply of clean drinking water. but the greatest thing of all is the beautiful beach and turquoise sea only steps away.

And the snorkelling is breath-taking. I LOVED the idea of snorkelling, although my only prior experience was in Thailand on our honeymoon, when Mitch and I had eye-goggles and nose-plugs as well as borrowed (ugh!) snorkels. The water there was only 18 inches deep, and we saw a few coloured fish and were extremely happy.

So in anticipation of the much-lauded snorkelling possibilities in the Caribbean, we dragged full gear for everyone all over Europe. We were told by the guys who run the campground that the best snorkelling is on the other side of the hill we are camped beside, so yesterday we loaded up our gear and hiked for a mile or so until we found the "snorkel beach".


Once there, I suddenly realised that snorkelling here was going to be a little more challenging. I really struggle with claustrophobia (which is embarrassing to admit), so putting on a full face-mask was a bit daunting; and then there was that whole discomfort in deep-water thing! But the kids were enthusiastically donning their flippers, and the thought of seeing the fish was alluring enough to get me geared up and out in the water... although no one will ever know the amount of courage it took to get me out that first time (more embarrassment), it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life!

There is no water source on Culebra, so there is very little run-off and as a result the sea waters are crystal-clear. The reef where we were is made up of beautiful rocks, and exquisite fan coral in reds and purples, as well as tube and brain corals in oranges and browns. It was gorgeous-- and full of fish of every possible colour. It was so exciting. And as Lochlan and I were out fairly deep, we suddenly saw a small sword-fish swim past -- he was thrilled (Lochlan was, that is -- the fish probably not so much!).

I was also so impressed with how all of the kids were able to just relax and let the sea support them. We were out way over everyone's heads for at least 30 minutes, and although they were tired when we came in, no one had any problem.

And the water here is bath-tub warm... it will be a long time before I'm ready to leave!


Dec. 23


One of the bizarre things out here is that there are several rusting army tanks dotted around the campground. Turns out the Americans used Culebra -- and particularly this beach area -- for target since the 1930s, and only stopped in the last decade. In fact, the US army came back just last year and did a sweep of the beach, finding several pieces of live munitions!! The locals are so gracious to us tourists and all the ex-pats to live here -- they could easily have decided to hate all "nort-Americanos", and who could really blame them? Apparently there is stil a lot of resentment (and resultant crime) on the nearby island of Vieques, where they only stopped the arms testing in 2003.

Here there is no such attitude; in fact, the Puerto Ricans seem to love nothing better that posing on top of the tanks for family pictures! Ai carumba!!!